How to Replace a Motorcycle Chain
\nGuida passo passo<\/span><\/h1>\nMotorcycle chain replacement is a fundamental maintenance skill. The process is straightforward once you understand the master link correctly \u2014 including the orientation of the clip that most people get wrong the first time.<\/p>\n
Visualizza le catene di ricambio<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/p>\n
\n<\/p>\n
\nBefore Starting \u2014 Three Pre-Replacement Decisions<\/h2>\n
Three decisions made before the new chain arrives affect how smoothly the replacement goes:<\/p>\n
\n1. Inspect the sprockets before ordering the chain<\/strong><\/p>\nView the tooth profile from the side under good lighting. Hook-shaped or asymmetric tooth tips mean the sprocket must also be replaced. Order the chain and sprockets together to avoid fitting a new chain on worn sprockets, which halves the new chain’s service life. The front (countershaft) sprocket should be replaced every time; the rear needs inspection and replacement if hook wear is visible.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
2. Confirm the link count before ordering<\/strong><\/p>\nCount the links on the old chain before removing it \u2014 count each pin as one link around the full circuit. Record this number. Alternatively, check the service manual for the OEM link count for your machine. Order one or two extra links for adjustment margin, especially if the rear axle is currently toward the front of its adjustment range.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
3. Confirm the master link type for your new chain<\/strong><\/p>\nMost replacement chains come with a master link included. Confirm whether it is a clip-type (quick-link with a spring clip) or a press-fit (rivet-type) master link. Clip-type links can be installed without tools. Press-fit links require a chain press tool to correctly peen the pin. Do not use a press-fit master link without the correct tool \u2014 an improperly pressed pin will fail under load.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
<\/p>\n
\nTools and Materials Needed<\/h3>\n\n\u2713<\/span>Chain breaker tool (for removing old chain)<\/div>\n\u2713<\/span>Socket and torque wrench (rear axle nut)<\/div>\n\u2713<\/span>Chain press tool (if using press-fit master link)<\/div>\n\u2713<\/span>Needle-nose pliers (for clip-type master link)<\/div>\n\u2713<\/span>Clean rags and chain lubricant<\/div>\n\u2713<\/span>Centre stand or rear paddock stand<\/div>\n\u2713<\/span>Service manual (for torque specs and chain slack spec)<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/p>\n
Step-by-Step Replacement Procedure<\/h2>\n\n\n1<\/div>\n\nLoosen the rear axle and move it forward in the adjustment slot<\/h3>\n
Before removing the old chain, loosen the rear axle nut and wind both axle adjusters fully forward (toward the front of the swingarm slot). This maximises the available slack in the chain, making it possible to manoeuvre the old chain off the sprockets without forcing. Note the current adjuster positions by counting the threads visible beyond the lock nuts before adjusting \u2014 this gives you a reference for reinstalling the new chain at approximately the same tension before fine-tuning.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\n2<\/div>\n\nRemove the old chain \u2014 find and open the master link<\/h3>\n
Rotate the rear wheel slowly to find the master link \u2014 the link whose outer plate has a different profile or whose pins have a visible clip or flare. For a clip-type master link: use needle-nose pliers to slide the spring clip off the pins, then press the outer plate off. For a rivet-type or press-fit link on the old chain: use the chain breaker tool to push one pin out far enough to separate the link.<\/p>\n
Once the chain is open, slide it off the rear sprocket and through any chain guide or slider. Feed it off the front sprocket. On machines with a one-piece swingarm, you may need to thread the chain out from one side.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\n3<\/div>\n\nInspect and replace the sprockets<\/h3>\n
With the old chain removed, inspect both sprockets carefully. The front sprocket: remove the cover plate, undo the sprocket bolt (often has a locking tab that must be bent straight), and slide the old sprocket off the countershaft spline. Compare tooth profile against a straight edge \u2014 any hook or asymmetry means replace.<\/p>\n
Fit the new front sprocket onto the countershaft spline \u2014 confirm it seats fully and the bolt thread is clean. Torque the sprocket bolt to specification (typically 40\u201380 Nm depending on machine \u2014 check service manual) and bend the locking tab back into position if applicable.<\/p>\n
Rear sprocket: inspect tooth profile. If hook-free and within service limits, it can remain. If hook wear is visible, remove the rear wheel, replace the rear sprocket, and reinstall before threading the new chain.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n4<\/div>\n\nSize the new chain to the correct link count<\/h3>\n
Count the links in the new chain. If it is longer than needed (new chains typically come as standard bulk lengths), use the chain breaker to remove links until the count matches the old chain’s link count. Always remove links in pairs (one inner and one outer) to maintain the correct inner-outer link sequence \u2014 the chain must end with an inner link pair that the master link’s outer plates close over.<\/p>\n
Verify before cutting:<\/strong> Thread the sized chain over both sprockets before fitting the master link to confirm the link count is correct. With the rear axle in approximately its mid-adjustment position, the chain should have the correct slack without the adjusters being at either extreme.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n5<\/div>\n\nThread the new chain and join with the master link<\/h3>\n
Thread the new chain over the front sprocket first (through any chain guide), around the rear sprocket, and bring the two ends together at the bottom of the rear sprocket or on the lower run. Insert the master link pins through the inner link plates on both chain ends, then fit the outer plate over the pins.<\/p>\n
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\n\u26a0 Master Link Clip Orientation \u2014 the Single Most Important Detail<\/div>\nFor clip-type master links, the spring clip must be installed with its closed end facing the direction of chain travel. The open end of the “U” shape must face away from the direction the chain moves.<\/p>\n
Why: As the chain runs, the clip is exposed to vibration and minor lateral forces. If the open end faces forward (into chain travel), these forces tend to push the clip toward the open end \u2014 and off the pins. If the closed end faces forward, the same forces push the clip further onto the pins, preventing it from coming off.<\/p>\n
Closed end of clip \u2192 direction of chain travel. Open end faces rearward.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n6<\/div>\n\nAdjust tension, align axle, and torque<\/h3>\n
Rotate the rear wheel slowly one full revolution, pressing upward on the chain at mid-span to find the tightest point. At the tightest point, adjust both axle adjusters equally until the chain slack is within the OEM specification (check service manual \u2014 typically 20\u201335 mm of total vertical movement at the tightest point). Verify the alignment marks on both sides of the swingarm match. Torque the rear axle nut to specification.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\n7<\/div>\n\nLubricate the new chain<\/h3>\n
Apply chain lubricant to the inner roller faces of the new chain \u2014 on the lower run, while rotating the rear wheel slowly. New chains come lightly lubricated from the factory but benefit from a full fresh application after installation. Allow the lubricant to penetrate for 10 minutes before the first ride.<\/p>\n
After the first 500 km:<\/strong> New chains bed in during the initial riding period, with the joints settling under load. Check tension after the first 500 km and re-adjust if the slack has increased \u2014 this bedding-in adjustment is normal and does not indicate a problem with the chain.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\u2713<\/div>\n\nFinal checks before riding<\/h3>\n\n- \u2713<\/span>Rear wheel spins freely with no resistance at any point in the rotation<\/li>\n
- \u2713<\/span>Master link clip is correctly oriented (closed end forward) and seated on both pins<\/li>\n
- \u2713<\/span>Chain slack is within OEM specification at the tightest point<\/li>\n
- \u2713<\/span>Alignment marks on both sides of the swingarm match<\/li>\n
- \u2713<\/span>Axle nut torqued to service manual specification<\/li>\n
- \u2713<\/span>Rear brake is functioning \u2014 drum brake adjuster re-checked if fitted, disc caliper properly seated<\/li>\n
- \u2713<\/span>Front sprocket cover reinstalled and bolts torqued<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
![\"motorcycle](\"https:\/\/motorcyclechain.top\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/motorcycle-chain-Installation-and-maintenance-3.webp\" "\\"Motorcycle")
<\/p>\n
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Sealed Chain Master Link \u2014 One Additional Step<\/h2>\n\n\nSealed chain master links (O-ring and X-ring types) include small rubber O-rings or X-rings that seat in grooves on the master link pins. These seals must be installed correctly \u2014 one on each pin on each side of the inner link \u2014 before the outer plate is pressed on. Missing a seal renders that joint unsealed, and the internal factory grease at that specific joint will migrate out over time just as in a non-sealed chain.<\/p>\n
For clip-type sealed master links: fit one seal on each pin, thread the pins through the inner plates, fit a second seal on each pin on the outer face, then press the outer plate onto the pins until both pins are flush with the outer plate face, and install the spring clip. The seals compress slightly to form the seal when the outer plate is fully seated.<\/p>\n
Apply a small amount of the grease supplied with the master link kit (if included) to the pin surfaces and seal grooves before assembly. This is the internal grease that protects the master link’s pin-bushing interface \u2014 the same role as the factory-packed grease in the other joints.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
![\"Korea](\"https:\/\/motorcyclechain.top\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/motorcycle-chain-packing-and-shipping.webp\" "\\"Korea")
<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/p>\n
\nReady to Order a Replacement Chain?<\/h2>\n
All sizes in stock \u2014 420 through 530, standard through Super X-ring. Master link included with every chain. Dispatch within 3\u20137 business days. Send us your chain’s size code and we confirm the specification.<\/p>\n
\nStandard \u2014 420 to 530<\/div>\nNon-sealed \u00b7 Clip-type master link<\/div>\n <\/p>\n
Guarnizione O-ring<\/div>\nSealed master link included \u00b7 Solid bore<\/div>\n <\/p>\n
Sigillato con anello X<\/div>\n34.0 kN \u00b7 Dual lip seal master link included<\/div>\n <\/p>\n<\/div>\n
Sostituire contemporaneamente anche i pignoni. pignoni per moto abbinati<\/a> per tutti i campi.<\/span>
\nPignoni \u2192<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/p>\n
Domande frequenti<\/h2>\n\n\nWhich direction does the master link clip face?+<\/span><\/summary>\nThe closed end of the clip faces the direction of chain travel, with the open end (the opening of the “U” shape) pointing rearward. On the lower run of the chain \u2014 between the rear sprocket bottom and the front sprocket \u2014 the chain travels forward (toward the engine), so the closed end of the clip faces forward. This orientation means any forces that try to slide the clip off its pins push it toward the closed end, not the open end, preventing unintentional separation.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n\nCan I reuse the old master link on the new chain?+<\/span><\/summary>\nNo. The old master link should be discarded with the old chain. The spring clip stretches slightly each time it is installed and removed \u2014 a reused clip has less clamping force and a higher risk of coming loose. Most importantly, the pins, bushings, and seals (if sealed type) on the old master link are worn to the same degree as the rest of the old chain. Always install the new master link supplied with the new chain, or a purpose-bought replacement of the correct type and size.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n\nMy new chain is too long. How many links should I remove?+<\/span><\/summary>\nAlways remove links in pairs (one inner link pair and one outer link pair) to maintain the correct inner-outer link sequence. The easiest way to determine the required length is to thread the unsized new chain over both sprockets with the rear axle at the mid-point of its adjustment slot, then bring the two ends together and count how many pairs of links need to be removed. Leave slightly more length than necessary \u2014 it is easier to remove another pair than to discover you cut too short. The chain must end with two inner link plates for the master link’s outer plates to close over.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n\nHow long does a chain replacement take for a first-timer?+<\/span><\/summary>\nFirst-time replacement typically takes 60\u201390 minutes, including sprocket inspection and replacement. Experienced mechanics complete the same job in 20\u201330 minutes. Most of the first-time effort goes into locating the master link, understanding the clip orientation, and carefully verifying the alignment marks during the tension adjustment step. The second replacement is typically half the time of the first.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n<\/div>\n<\/p>\n
\nOrder Your Replacement Chain<\/h2>\n
Korea Ever-Power supplies all motorcycle chain sizes \u2014 420 through 530 \u2014 in standard, H-grade, O-ring, X-ring, and Super X-ring. Master link included. Send us your size code and we confirm the specification before dispatch.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Before Starting \u2014 Three Pre-Replacement Decisions<\/h2>\n
Three decisions made before the new chain arrives affect how smoothly the replacement goes:<\/p>\n
View the tooth profile from the side under good lighting. Hook-shaped or asymmetric tooth tips mean the sprocket must also be replaced. Order the chain and sprockets together to avoid fitting a new chain on worn sprockets, which halves the new chain’s service life. The front (countershaft) sprocket should be replaced every time; the rear needs inspection and replacement if hook wear is visible.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
Count the links on the old chain before removing it \u2014 count each pin as one link around the full circuit. Record this number. Alternatively, check the service manual for the OEM link count for your machine. Order one or two extra links for adjustment margin, especially if the rear axle is currently toward the front of its adjustment range.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
Most replacement chains come with a master link included. Confirm whether it is a clip-type (quick-link with a spring clip) or a press-fit (rivet-type) master link. Clip-type links can be installed without tools. Press-fit links require a chain press tool to correctly peen the pin. Do not use a press-fit master link without the correct tool \u2014 an improperly pressed pin will fail under load.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
<\/p>\n
Tools and Materials Needed<\/h3>\n\n\u2713<\/span>Chain breaker tool (for removing old chain)<\/div>\n\u2713<\/span>Socket and torque wrench (rear axle nut)<\/div>\n\u2713<\/span>Chain press tool (if using press-fit master link)<\/div>\n\u2713<\/span>Needle-nose pliers (for clip-type master link)<\/div>\n\u2713<\/span>Clean rags and chain lubricant<\/div>\n\u2713<\/span>Centre stand or rear paddock stand<\/div>\n\u2713<\/span>Service manual (for torque specs and chain slack spec)<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/p>\n
Step-by-Step Replacement Procedure<\/h2>\n\n\n1<\/div>\n\nLoosen the rear axle and move it forward in the adjustment slot<\/h3>\n
Before removing the old chain, loosen the rear axle nut and wind both axle adjusters fully forward (toward the front of the swingarm slot). This maximises the available slack in the chain, making it possible to manoeuvre the old chain off the sprockets without forcing. Note the current adjuster positions by counting the threads visible beyond the lock nuts before adjusting \u2014 this gives you a reference for reinstalling the new chain at approximately the same tension before fine-tuning.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\n2<\/div>\n\nRemove the old chain \u2014 find and open the master link<\/h3>\n
Rotate the rear wheel slowly to find the master link \u2014 the link whose outer plate has a different profile or whose pins have a visible clip or flare. For a clip-type master link: use needle-nose pliers to slide the spring clip off the pins, then press the outer plate off. For a rivet-type or press-fit link on the old chain: use the chain breaker tool to push one pin out far enough to separate the link.<\/p>\n
Once the chain is open, slide it off the rear sprocket and through any chain guide or slider. Feed it off the front sprocket. On machines with a one-piece swingarm, you may need to thread the chain out from one side.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\n3<\/div>\n\nInspect and replace the sprockets<\/h3>\n
With the old chain removed, inspect both sprockets carefully. The front sprocket: remove the cover plate, undo the sprocket bolt (often has a locking tab that must be bent straight), and slide the old sprocket off the countershaft spline. Compare tooth profile against a straight edge \u2014 any hook or asymmetry means replace.<\/p>\n
Fit the new front sprocket onto the countershaft spline \u2014 confirm it seats fully and the bolt thread is clean. Torque the sprocket bolt to specification (typically 40\u201380 Nm depending on machine \u2014 check service manual) and bend the locking tab back into position if applicable.<\/p>\n
Rear sprocket: inspect tooth profile. If hook-free and within service limits, it can remain. If hook wear is visible, remove the rear wheel, replace the rear sprocket, and reinstall before threading the new chain.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n4<\/div>\n\nSize the new chain to the correct link count<\/h3>\n
Count the links in the new chain. If it is longer than needed (new chains typically come as standard bulk lengths), use the chain breaker to remove links until the count matches the old chain’s link count. Always remove links in pairs (one inner and one outer) to maintain the correct inner-outer link sequence \u2014 the chain must end with an inner link pair that the master link’s outer plates close over.<\/p>\n
Verify before cutting:<\/strong> Thread the sized chain over both sprockets before fitting the master link to confirm the link count is correct. With the rear axle in approximately its mid-adjustment position, the chain should have the correct slack without the adjusters being at either extreme.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n5<\/div>\n\nThread the new chain and join with the master link<\/h3>\n
Thread the new chain over the front sprocket first (through any chain guide), around the rear sprocket, and bring the two ends together at the bottom of the rear sprocket or on the lower run. Insert the master link pins through the inner link plates on both chain ends, then fit the outer plate over the pins.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
\n\u26a0 Master Link Clip Orientation \u2014 the Single Most Important Detail<\/div>\nFor clip-type master links, the spring clip must be installed with its closed end facing the direction of chain travel. The open end of the “U” shape must face away from the direction the chain moves.<\/p>\n
Why: As the chain runs, the clip is exposed to vibration and minor lateral forces. If the open end faces forward (into chain travel), these forces tend to push the clip toward the open end \u2014 and off the pins. If the closed end faces forward, the same forces push the clip further onto the pins, preventing it from coming off.<\/p>\n
Closed end of clip \u2192 direction of chain travel. Open end faces rearward.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n6<\/div>\n\nAdjust tension, align axle, and torque<\/h3>\n
Rotate the rear wheel slowly one full revolution, pressing upward on the chain at mid-span to find the tightest point. At the tightest point, adjust both axle adjusters equally until the chain slack is within the OEM specification (check service manual \u2014 typically 20\u201335 mm of total vertical movement at the tightest point). Verify the alignment marks on both sides of the swingarm match. Torque the rear axle nut to specification.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\n7<\/div>\n\nLubricate the new chain<\/h3>\n
Apply chain lubricant to the inner roller faces of the new chain \u2014 on the lower run, while rotating the rear wheel slowly. New chains come lightly lubricated from the factory but benefit from a full fresh application after installation. Allow the lubricant to penetrate for 10 minutes before the first ride.<\/p>\n
After the first 500 km:<\/strong> New chains bed in during the initial riding period, with the joints settling under load. Check tension after the first 500 km and re-adjust if the slack has increased \u2014 this bedding-in adjustment is normal and does not indicate a problem with the chain.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\u2713<\/div>\n\nFinal checks before riding<\/h3>\n\n- \u2713<\/span>Rear wheel spins freely with no resistance at any point in the rotation<\/li>\n
- \u2713<\/span>Master link clip is correctly oriented (closed end forward) and seated on both pins<\/li>\n
- \u2713<\/span>Chain slack is within OEM specification at the tightest point<\/li>\n
- \u2713<\/span>Alignment marks on both sides of the swingarm match<\/li>\n
- \u2713<\/span>Axle nut torqued to service manual specification<\/li>\n
- \u2713<\/span>Rear brake is functioning \u2014 drum brake adjuster re-checked if fitted, disc caliper properly seated<\/li>\n
- \u2713<\/span>Front sprocket cover reinstalled and bolts torqued<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Sealed Chain Master Link \u2014 One Additional Step<\/h2>\n\n\nSealed chain master links (O-ring and X-ring types) include small rubber O-rings or X-rings that seat in grooves on the master link pins. These seals must be installed correctly \u2014 one on each pin on each side of the inner link \u2014 before the outer plate is pressed on. Missing a seal renders that joint unsealed, and the internal factory grease at that specific joint will migrate out over time just as in a non-sealed chain.<\/p>\n
For clip-type sealed master links: fit one seal on each pin, thread the pins through the inner plates, fit a second seal on each pin on the outer face, then press the outer plate onto the pins until both pins are flush with the outer plate face, and install the spring clip. The seals compress slightly to form the seal when the outer plate is fully seated.<\/p>\n
Apply a small amount of the grease supplied with the master link kit (if included) to the pin surfaces and seal grooves before assembly. This is the internal grease that protects the master link’s pin-bushing interface \u2014 the same role as the factory-packed grease in the other joints.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/p>\n
\nReady to Order a Replacement Chain?<\/h2>\n
All sizes in stock \u2014 420 through 530, standard through Super X-ring. Master link included with every chain. Dispatch within 3\u20137 business days. Send us your chain’s size code and we confirm the specification.<\/p>\n
\nStandard \u2014 420 to 530<\/div>\nNon-sealed \u00b7 Clip-type master link<\/div>\n <\/p>\n
Guarnizione O-ring<\/div>\nSealed master link included \u00b7 Solid bore<\/div>\n <\/p>\n
Sigillato con anello X<\/div>\n34.0 kN \u00b7 Dual lip seal master link included<\/div>\n <\/p>\n<\/div>\n
Sostituire contemporaneamente anche i pignoni. pignoni per moto abbinati<\/a> per tutti i campi.<\/span>
\nPignoni \u2192<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/p>\n
Domande frequenti<\/h2>\n\n\nWhich direction does the master link clip face?+<\/span><\/summary>\nThe closed end of the clip faces the direction of chain travel, with the open end (the opening of the “U” shape) pointing rearward. On the lower run of the chain \u2014 between the rear sprocket bottom and the front sprocket \u2014 the chain travels forward (toward the engine), so the closed end of the clip faces forward. This orientation means any forces that try to slide the clip off its pins push it toward the closed end, not the open end, preventing unintentional separation.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n\nCan I reuse the old master link on the new chain?+<\/span><\/summary>\nNo. The old master link should be discarded with the old chain. The spring clip stretches slightly each time it is installed and removed \u2014 a reused clip has less clamping force and a higher risk of coming loose. Most importantly, the pins, bushings, and seals (if sealed type) on the old master link are worn to the same degree as the rest of the old chain. Always install the new master link supplied with the new chain, or a purpose-bought replacement of the correct type and size.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n\nMy new chain is too long. How many links should I remove?+<\/span><\/summary>\nAlways remove links in pairs (one inner link pair and one outer link pair) to maintain the correct inner-outer link sequence. The easiest way to determine the required length is to thread the unsized new chain over both sprockets with the rear axle at the mid-point of its adjustment slot, then bring the two ends together and count how many pairs of links need to be removed. Leave slightly more length than necessary \u2014 it is easier to remove another pair than to discover you cut too short. The chain must end with two inner link plates for the master link’s outer plates to close over.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n\nHow long does a chain replacement take for a first-timer?+<\/span><\/summary>\nFirst-time replacement typically takes 60\u201390 minutes, including sprocket inspection and replacement. Experienced mechanics complete the same job in 20\u201330 minutes. Most of the first-time effort goes into locating the master link, understanding the clip orientation, and carefully verifying the alignment marks during the tension adjustment step. The second replacement is typically half the time of the first.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n<\/div>\n<\/p>\n
\nOrder Your Replacement Chain<\/h2>\n
Korea Ever-Power supplies all motorcycle chain sizes \u2014 420 through 530 \u2014 in standard, H-grade, O-ring, X-ring, and Super X-ring. Master link included. Send us your size code and we confirm the specification before dispatch.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Step-by-Step Replacement Procedure<\/h2>\n\n\n1<\/div>\n\nLoosen the rear axle and move it forward in the adjustment slot<\/h3>\n
Before removing the old chain, loosen the rear axle nut and wind both axle adjusters fully forward (toward the front of the swingarm slot). This maximises the available slack in the chain, making it possible to manoeuvre the old chain off the sprockets without forcing. Note the current adjuster positions by counting the threads visible beyond the lock nuts before adjusting \u2014 this gives you a reference for reinstalling the new chain at approximately the same tension before fine-tuning.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\n2<\/div>\n\nRemove the old chain \u2014 find and open the master link<\/h3>\n
Rotate the rear wheel slowly to find the master link \u2014 the link whose outer plate has a different profile or whose pins have a visible clip or flare. For a clip-type master link: use needle-nose pliers to slide the spring clip off the pins, then press the outer plate off. For a rivet-type or press-fit link on the old chain: use the chain breaker tool to push one pin out far enough to separate the link.<\/p>\n
Once the chain is open, slide it off the rear sprocket and through any chain guide or slider. Feed it off the front sprocket. On machines with a one-piece swingarm, you may need to thread the chain out from one side.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\n3<\/div>\n\nInspect and replace the sprockets<\/h3>\n
With the old chain removed, inspect both sprockets carefully. The front sprocket: remove the cover plate, undo the sprocket bolt (often has a locking tab that must be bent straight), and slide the old sprocket off the countershaft spline. Compare tooth profile against a straight edge \u2014 any hook or asymmetry means replace.<\/p>\n
Fit the new front sprocket onto the countershaft spline \u2014 confirm it seats fully and the bolt thread is clean. Torque the sprocket bolt to specification (typically 40\u201380 Nm depending on machine \u2014 check service manual) and bend the locking tab back into position if applicable.<\/p>\n
Rear sprocket: inspect tooth profile. If hook-free and within service limits, it can remain. If hook wear is visible, remove the rear wheel, replace the rear sprocket, and reinstall before threading the new chain.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n4<\/div>\n\nSize the new chain to the correct link count<\/h3>\n
Count the links in the new chain. If it is longer than needed (new chains typically come as standard bulk lengths), use the chain breaker to remove links until the count matches the old chain’s link count. Always remove links in pairs (one inner and one outer) to maintain the correct inner-outer link sequence \u2014 the chain must end with an inner link pair that the master link’s outer plates close over.<\/p>\n
Verify before cutting:<\/strong> Thread the sized chain over both sprockets before fitting the master link to confirm the link count is correct. With the rear axle in approximately its mid-adjustment position, the chain should have the correct slack without the adjusters being at either extreme.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n5<\/div>\n\nThread the new chain and join with the master link<\/h3>\n
Thread the new chain over the front sprocket first (through any chain guide), around the rear sprocket, and bring the two ends together at the bottom of the rear sprocket or on the lower run. Insert the master link pins through the inner link plates on both chain ends, then fit the outer plate over the pins.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
\n\u26a0 Master Link Clip Orientation \u2014 the Single Most Important Detail<\/div>\nFor clip-type master links, the spring clip must be installed with its closed end facing the direction of chain travel. The open end of the “U” shape must face away from the direction the chain moves.<\/p>\n
Why: As the chain runs, the clip is exposed to vibration and minor lateral forces. If the open end faces forward (into chain travel), these forces tend to push the clip toward the open end \u2014 and off the pins. If the closed end faces forward, the same forces push the clip further onto the pins, preventing it from coming off.<\/p>\n
Closed end of clip \u2192 direction of chain travel. Open end faces rearward.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n6<\/div>\n\nAdjust tension, align axle, and torque<\/h3>\n
Rotate the rear wheel slowly one full revolution, pressing upward on the chain at mid-span to find the tightest point. At the tightest point, adjust both axle adjusters equally until the chain slack is within the OEM specification (check service manual \u2014 typically 20\u201335 mm of total vertical movement at the tightest point). Verify the alignment marks on both sides of the swingarm match. Torque the rear axle nut to specification.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\n7<\/div>\n\nLubricate the new chain<\/h3>\n
Apply chain lubricant to the inner roller faces of the new chain \u2014 on the lower run, while rotating the rear wheel slowly. New chains come lightly lubricated from the factory but benefit from a full fresh application after installation. Allow the lubricant to penetrate for 10 minutes before the first ride.<\/p>\n
After the first 500 km:<\/strong> New chains bed in during the initial riding period, with the joints settling under load. Check tension after the first 500 km and re-adjust if the slack has increased \u2014 this bedding-in adjustment is normal and does not indicate a problem with the chain.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\u2713<\/div>\n\nFinal checks before riding<\/h3>\n\n- \u2713<\/span>Rear wheel spins freely with no resistance at any point in the rotation<\/li>\n
- \u2713<\/span>Master link clip is correctly oriented (closed end forward) and seated on both pins<\/li>\n
- \u2713<\/span>Chain slack is within OEM specification at the tightest point<\/li>\n
- \u2713<\/span>Alignment marks on both sides of the swingarm match<\/li>\n
- \u2713<\/span>Axle nut torqued to service manual specification<\/li>\n
- \u2713<\/span>Rear brake is functioning \u2014 drum brake adjuster re-checked if fitted, disc caliper properly seated<\/li>\n
- \u2713<\/span>Front sprocket cover reinstalled and bolts torqued<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Sealed Chain Master Link \u2014 One Additional Step<\/h2>\n\n\nSealed chain master links (O-ring and X-ring types) include small rubber O-rings or X-rings that seat in grooves on the master link pins. These seals must be installed correctly \u2014 one on each pin on each side of the inner link \u2014 before the outer plate is pressed on. Missing a seal renders that joint unsealed, and the internal factory grease at that specific joint will migrate out over time just as in a non-sealed chain.<\/p>\n
For clip-type sealed master links: fit one seal on each pin, thread the pins through the inner plates, fit a second seal on each pin on the outer face, then press the outer plate onto the pins until both pins are flush with the outer plate face, and install the spring clip. The seals compress slightly to form the seal when the outer plate is fully seated.<\/p>\n
Apply a small amount of the grease supplied with the master link kit (if included) to the pin surfaces and seal grooves before assembly. This is the internal grease that protects the master link’s pin-bushing interface \u2014 the same role as the factory-packed grease in the other joints.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/p>\n
\nReady to Order a Replacement Chain?<\/h2>\n
All sizes in stock \u2014 420 through 530, standard through Super X-ring. Master link included with every chain. Dispatch within 3\u20137 business days. Send us your chain’s size code and we confirm the specification.<\/p>\n
\nStandard \u2014 420 to 530<\/div>\nNon-sealed \u00b7 Clip-type master link<\/div>\n <\/p>\n
Guarnizione O-ring<\/div>\nSealed master link included \u00b7 Solid bore<\/div>\n <\/p>\n
Sigillato con anello X<\/div>\n34.0 kN \u00b7 Dual lip seal master link included<\/div>\n <\/p>\n<\/div>\n
Sostituire contemporaneamente anche i pignoni. pignoni per moto abbinati<\/a> per tutti i campi.<\/span>
\nPignoni \u2192<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/p>\n
Domande frequenti<\/h2>\n\n\nWhich direction does the master link clip face?+<\/span><\/summary>\nThe closed end of the clip faces the direction of chain travel, with the open end (the opening of the “U” shape) pointing rearward. On the lower run of the chain \u2014 between the rear sprocket bottom and the front sprocket \u2014 the chain travels forward (toward the engine), so the closed end of the clip faces forward. This orientation means any forces that try to slide the clip off its pins push it toward the closed end, not the open end, preventing unintentional separation.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n\nCan I reuse the old master link on the new chain?+<\/span><\/summary>\nNo. The old master link should be discarded with the old chain. The spring clip stretches slightly each time it is installed and removed \u2014 a reused clip has less clamping force and a higher risk of coming loose. Most importantly, the pins, bushings, and seals (if sealed type) on the old master link are worn to the same degree as the rest of the old chain. Always install the new master link supplied with the new chain, or a purpose-bought replacement of the correct type and size.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n\nMy new chain is too long. How many links should I remove?+<\/span><\/summary>\nAlways remove links in pairs (one inner link pair and one outer link pair) to maintain the correct inner-outer link sequence. The easiest way to determine the required length is to thread the unsized new chain over both sprockets with the rear axle at the mid-point of its adjustment slot, then bring the two ends together and count how many pairs of links need to be removed. Leave slightly more length than necessary \u2014 it is easier to remove another pair than to discover you cut too short. The chain must end with two inner link plates for the master link’s outer plates to close over.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n\nHow long does a chain replacement take for a first-timer?+<\/span><\/summary>\nFirst-time replacement typically takes 60\u201390 minutes, including sprocket inspection and replacement. Experienced mechanics complete the same job in 20\u201330 minutes. Most of the first-time effort goes into locating the master link, understanding the clip orientation, and carefully verifying the alignment marks during the tension adjustment step. The second replacement is typically half the time of the first.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n<\/div>\n<\/p>\n
\nOrder Your Replacement Chain<\/h2>\n
Korea Ever-Power supplies all motorcycle chain sizes \u2014 420 through 530 \u2014 in standard, H-grade, O-ring, X-ring, and Super X-ring. Master link included. Send us your size code and we confirm the specification before dispatch.<\/p>\n
Loosen the rear axle and move it forward in the adjustment slot<\/h3>\n
Before removing the old chain, loosen the rear axle nut and wind both axle adjusters fully forward (toward the front of the swingarm slot). This maximises the available slack in the chain, making it possible to manoeuvre the old chain off the sprockets without forcing. Note the current adjuster positions by counting the threads visible beyond the lock nuts before adjusting \u2014 this gives you a reference for reinstalling the new chain at approximately the same tension before fine-tuning.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
Remove the old chain \u2014 find and open the master link<\/h3>\n
Rotate the rear wheel slowly to find the master link \u2014 the link whose outer plate has a different profile or whose pins have a visible clip or flare. For a clip-type master link: use needle-nose pliers to slide the spring clip off the pins, then press the outer plate off. For a rivet-type or press-fit link on the old chain: use the chain breaker tool to push one pin out far enough to separate the link.<\/p>\n
Once the chain is open, slide it off the rear sprocket and through any chain guide or slider. Feed it off the front sprocket. On machines with a one-piece swingarm, you may need to thread the chain out from one side.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
Inspect and replace the sprockets<\/h3>\n
With the old chain removed, inspect both sprockets carefully. The front sprocket: remove the cover plate, undo the sprocket bolt (often has a locking tab that must be bent straight), and slide the old sprocket off the countershaft spline. Compare tooth profile against a straight edge \u2014 any hook or asymmetry means replace.<\/p>\n
Fit the new front sprocket onto the countershaft spline \u2014 confirm it seats fully and the bolt thread is clean. Torque the sprocket bolt to specification (typically 40\u201380 Nm depending on machine \u2014 check service manual) and bend the locking tab back into position if applicable.<\/p>\n
Size the new chain to the correct link count<\/h3>\n
Count the links in the new chain. If it is longer than needed (new chains typically come as standard bulk lengths), use the chain breaker to remove links until the count matches the old chain’s link count. Always remove links in pairs (one inner and one outer) to maintain the correct inner-outer link sequence \u2014 the chain must end with an inner link pair that the master link’s outer plates close over.<\/p>\n
Thread the new chain and join with the master link<\/h3>\n
Thread the new chain over the front sprocket first (through any chain guide), around the rear sprocket, and bring the two ends together at the bottom of the rear sprocket or on the lower run. Insert the master link pins through the inner link plates on both chain ends, then fit the outer plate over the pins.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
For clip-type master links, the spring clip must be installed with its closed end facing the direction of chain travel. The open end of the “U” shape must face away from the direction the chain moves.<\/p>\n
Why: As the chain runs, the clip is exposed to vibration and minor lateral forces. If the open end faces forward (into chain travel), these forces tend to push the clip toward the open end \u2014 and off the pins. If the closed end faces forward, the same forces push the clip further onto the pins, preventing it from coming off.<\/p>\n
Adjust tension, align axle, and torque<\/h3>\n
Rotate the rear wheel slowly one full revolution, pressing upward on the chain at mid-span to find the tightest point. At the tightest point, adjust both axle adjusters equally until the chain slack is within the OEM specification (check service manual \u2014 typically 20\u201335 mm of total vertical movement at the tightest point). Verify the alignment marks on both sides of the swingarm match. Torque the rear axle nut to specification.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
Lubricate the new chain<\/h3>\n
Apply chain lubricant to the inner roller faces of the new chain \u2014 on the lower run, while rotating the rear wheel slowly. New chains come lightly lubricated from the factory but benefit from a full fresh application after installation. Allow the lubricant to penetrate for 10 minutes before the first ride.<\/p>\n
After the first 500 km:<\/strong> New chains bed in during the initial riding period, with the joints settling under load. Check tension after the first 500 km and re-adjust if the slack has increased \u2014 this bedding-in adjustment is normal and does not indicate a problem with the chain.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n <\/p>\n Sealed chain master links (O-ring and X-ring types) include small rubber O-rings or X-rings that seat in grooves on the master link pins. These seals must be installed correctly \u2014 one on each pin on each side of the inner link \u2014 before the outer plate is pressed on. Missing a seal renders that joint unsealed, and the internal factory grease at that specific joint will migrate out over time just as in a non-sealed chain.<\/p>\n For clip-type sealed master links: fit one seal on each pin, thread the pins through the inner plates, fit a second seal on each pin on the outer face, then press the outer plate onto the pins until both pins are flush with the outer plate face, and install the spring clip. The seals compress slightly to form the seal when the outer plate is fully seated.<\/p>\n Apply a small amount of the grease supplied with the master link kit (if included) to the pin surfaces and seal grooves before assembly. This is the internal grease that protects the master link’s pin-bushing interface \u2014 the same role as the factory-packed grease in the other joints.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n <\/p>\n All sizes in stock \u2014 420 through 530, standard through Super X-ring. Master link included with every chain. Dispatch within 3\u20137 business days. Send us your chain’s size code and we confirm the specification.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n<\/div>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n Korea Ever-Power supplies all motorcycle chain sizes \u2014 420 through 530 \u2014 in standard, H-grade, O-ring, X-ring, and Super X-ring. Master link included. Send us your size code and we confirm the specification before dispatch.<\/p>\nFinal checks before riding<\/h3>\n
\n
<\/p>\nSealed Chain Master Link \u2014 One Additional Step<\/h2>\n
<\/div>\n<\/div>\nReady to Order a Replacement Chain?<\/h2>\n
\nPignoni \u2192<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\nDomande frequenti<\/h2>\n
Which direction does the master link clip face?+<\/span><\/summary>\n
Can I reuse the old master link on the new chain?+<\/span><\/summary>\n
My new chain is too long. How many links should I remove?+<\/span><\/summary>\n
How long does a chain replacement take for a first-timer?+<\/span><\/summary>\n
Order Your Replacement Chain<\/h2>\n